Departing for Devon: Lynton, Barnstaple, Ilfracombe

June 4th. As usual, it took forever to get going so we didn't leave until 11.30. I always get twitchy until we're actually on the road, preferably with all lights working. I was ready in good time but Kim was gabbing male-type drivel with some jolly chaps from Norfolk. Don't men twine on about nothing at all?

On our way down the twee little road taking us off the common, we were held up by a cow meandering across the bridge. If only all cows could lead such a natural life before they're turned into burgers and steak!

There were signs on the motorway promising hold-ups so we came off onto A roads. Consequently it took 6 hours to get to Lynton. That's too long to be in the car in my opinion. I don't know how these people manage who drive all the way to the South of France in one go! Thank goodness for the warm welcome, which went a long way towards alleviating my crabbiness. Walking maps and divine ice cream are available at reception.

Lynton Camping and Caravanning Club Site (non members welcome)
Caffyn's Cross
Lynton
Devon EX35 6JS
01598 752379
This is a big site with 105 pitches but we chose to camp in the top field, away from the children's play area and toilet block etc. We opted for solitude and views, which were glorious. There's a bus stop at the end of the lane, buses to Lynton and Barnstaple.

June 5th. We thought we'd chosen a peaceful spec but a howling gale kicked off in the night and, because we were high and exposed, we enjoyed the full thrust of it. The caravan was shaken and rocked by gusts and we thought the awning was going to take off, and us with it. I didn't sleep a wink and was up early, checking guy ropes and all that hearty business, while Kim slept peacefully on.

We took the car to Lynmouth on steep and terrifying roads. It's very quaint and pretty but touristy. Parking wasn't easy either, and expensive. So was the food so we came back to have lunch with Dorothy. It widdled down with rain in the afternoon so we had a sleep. When we woke up, the wind had dropped (praise be) but a mist had descended. So much for our fine view.

6th June. Caught the bus to Barnstaple. The bus stop is non-existent. You have to stand in a field gateway and leap out to stop it. Barnstaple was nothing special but we did some food shopping and had a look at the river. I can't imagine anyone wanting to spend a holiday there.

The mist had cleared and we enjoyed the fabulous views: field, hills and the sea to the West. Only six of us on this field so quite peaceful.

June 7th. Back to the gateway for the Ilfracombe bus. There's a fabulous harbour and impressive rocks but the town is a bit seedy. The lifeboat station was open for members of the public to wander around. No charge except a voluntary donation.

In the evening, we set off to walk to Lynton - only two miles but talk about STEEP! The further we descended, the more my knee protested, and I couldn't help thinking about the climb back. I'm ashamed to admit I gave up after my knee got so painful I was going down sideways like a crab. I cheered myself up with much moaning and complaining, and hurled vile abuse at Kim when he tried to take a photo of my tortured and hag-ridden face.

June 8th. Torrential rain and gusty winds all night and well into the day. We stayed inside, reading and drinking vast quantities of booze.