Somerset

June 9th. Escaped from this windswept hill and set off for Wookey in Somerset. We were hoping to re-visit Wookey Hole Caves which we enjoyed many years ago. Sadly, they seem to have turned the whole shebang into a theme park so we gave it a miss.

The satnav took us though miles of single track lanes, not at all suitable for towing a caravan and my nerves were shredded. If you go, and you’re towing, do not use the satnav! But the countryside is beautiful, with gorgeous black soil exposed by the peat diggings.

The campsite is on a small working farm with free range ducks and chicks all over the place. We received a friendly welcome and the offer of a cup of tea. I think there were just five pitches – so it’s very peaceful. Showers, washing up sink and toilet so it’s suitable for tents. (But you have to put money in the meter for hot water.)

Mr and Mrs Stott
Pine Tree Farm
Castle Lane
Wookey, near Wells
Somerset
BA5 1NN
Tel: 01749 675247

Mrs Stott is a treasure and likes a good gab. We only saw Mr Stott in the distance as he appears to work on the farm all the hours God sends.

June 10th. The poor ducks were confined to the orchard this morning as the fox has been eating them and Mrs Stott decided enough was enough. ‘They’re not happy about it,’ she said, ‘but it’s for their own good.’ Most of them managed to break out in any case. The hens have been visiting and wandering in and out if the awning. They’re most welcome but I wish they wouldn’t poo all over the place.

We went to Bristol, which is very smart and lively. The river is full of boats: cruisers, yachts, barges, narrow boats. It was marvellous to see them all. We wanted to see SS Great Britain but they were charging £9.95 each! You couldn’t even look at the outside of the ship without parting with the ackers. I know these things cost money to maintain but we thought that was a bit steep so we didn’t bother. I think there were actors on board, pretending to be cabin boys and that sort of thing. We didn’t want actors and activities, we just wanted to look at the boat!

We had a jolly good lunch in a seafood restaurant near the river.

So we like Bristol but I should mention that there were no signs for the Park and Ride. We drove round for ages looking for it and in the end we followed a bus.

11th June. We cycled to Wells, which is fabulous. The cathedral is a must-see and there was an excellent outdoor market in the town square.

We didn’t have lunch, although there were plenty of places to eat, but we had a drink in a pub that used to be the town prison. Cycled back in the rain.





Wells market











Bishop's Palace, Wells











City Arms pub, Wells






12th June. Rained non-stop all day so we drove to Wells to buy a paper and sat around reading all day.

June 13th. Drove to Bath. Very grand and gracious and all that but I didn’t think it had a great deal of character. Too much exposure to Jane Austen at school I expect. We walked along the river bank (concrete – not nice to look at) to the locks, where the River Avon joins the Kennet and Avon canal. Then we went to have a look at the impressive weir and the famous Pulteney Bridge. To be honest, I’d never heard of it but Kim assured me it’s very well known for its character and antiquity. So there you go. Worth a dose of looking at. Plenty of yummy pie shops but no good for Kim’s gluten intolerance so we ended up in the market caff where he dined on corned beef and mash and I suffered the most dry and boring cheese and tomato toasty I’ve ever encountered.

I’m sure the Roman Baths are worth a visit but it was the same old story – character actors and interactive bla de bla at a cost of £10.50 per person if you’re OVER 65! I can’t remember what the full price was but it was way too dear for us. We didn’t bother. It’s not that we’re mean – but honestly, if you paid £20 per day to look at things you’d only be able to go away for a few days a year!

14th June. We cycled to Glastonbury. It really is great cycling country around here, lots of quiet lanes with not too much traffic, although I did come a cropper into a bed of nettles because I pulled over too far to let a white van come through. The bugger never stopped to see if I was OK either!

Glastonbury is a lovely little town – or used to be. There are hardly any proper shops left as they’ve all been taken over for the selling of crystals, tarot cards and rather lovely ethnic cotton clothes (at extortionate prices). There’s also a fair bit of circle dancing and shamanic drumming being advertised. The only cafes I saw were vegetarian, vegan, organic, microbiotic or just plain twee. Not a greasy spoon in sight!

The place is full of left over hippies in silly clothes smoking roll-up ciggies with special additives. Most of them looked as if they good do with a good wash.

I mentioned all this to good old Mrs Stott and she said it used to be a lovely little town before the Festival took over. Oh well, at least there’s a good living to be made for the locals. I’m glad I don’t have to live there, all that spiritual sincerity (not) would drive me demented! It was amusing for one day tho. Next time, we’ll go earlier and drag our wretched bodies to the summit of the Tor.

We had glorious sunshine all day so we took down the dry awning in preparation for the journey home.

June 15th. Stopped at Wolverley for one night to break the journey. We’ve stayed on this site before, when we were proper camping with a tent. We got rained off that time. It’s a good site and close to Kidderminster. You can walk or cycle there along the towpath of the Staffs and Worcester Canal. There’s a pub, The Lock Inn, just outside the site. We sat and enjoyed a drink while we watched the boats go through. Very pleasant.

Wolverley Camping and Caravanning Club Site
Brown Westhead Park
Wolverley
DY10 3PX
01562 850909

Departing for Devon: Lynton, Barnstaple, Ilfracombe

June 4th. As usual, it took forever to get going so we didn't leave until 11.30. I always get twitchy until we're actually on the road, preferably with all lights working. I was ready in good time but Kim was gabbing male-type drivel with some jolly chaps from Norfolk. Don't men twine on about nothing at all?

On our way down the twee little road taking us off the common, we were held up by a cow meandering across the bridge. If only all cows could lead such a natural life before they're turned into burgers and steak!

There were signs on the motorway promising hold-ups so we came off onto A roads. Consequently it took 6 hours to get to Lynton. That's too long to be in the car in my opinion. I don't know how these people manage who drive all the way to the South of France in one go! Thank goodness for the warm welcome, which went a long way towards alleviating my crabbiness. Walking maps and divine ice cream are available at reception.

Lynton Camping and Caravanning Club Site (non members welcome)
Caffyn's Cross
Lynton
Devon EX35 6JS
01598 752379
This is a big site with 105 pitches but we chose to camp in the top field, away from the children's play area and toilet block etc. We opted for solitude and views, which were glorious. There's a bus stop at the end of the lane, buses to Lynton and Barnstaple.

June 5th. We thought we'd chosen a peaceful spec but a howling gale kicked off in the night and, because we were high and exposed, we enjoyed the full thrust of it. The caravan was shaken and rocked by gusts and we thought the awning was going to take off, and us with it. I didn't sleep a wink and was up early, checking guy ropes and all that hearty business, while Kim slept peacefully on.

We took the car to Lynmouth on steep and terrifying roads. It's very quaint and pretty but touristy. Parking wasn't easy either, and expensive. So was the food so we came back to have lunch with Dorothy. It widdled down with rain in the afternoon so we had a sleep. When we woke up, the wind had dropped (praise be) but a mist had descended. So much for our fine view.

6th June. Caught the bus to Barnstaple. The bus stop is non-existent. You have to stand in a field gateway and leap out to stop it. Barnstaple was nothing special but we did some food shopping and had a look at the river. I can't imagine anyone wanting to spend a holiday there.

The mist had cleared and we enjoyed the fabulous views: field, hills and the sea to the West. Only six of us on this field so quite peaceful.

June 7th. Back to the gateway for the Ilfracombe bus. There's a fabulous harbour and impressive rocks but the town is a bit seedy. The lifeboat station was open for members of the public to wander around. No charge except a voluntary donation.

In the evening, we set off to walk to Lynton - only two miles but talk about STEEP! The further we descended, the more my knee protested, and I couldn't help thinking about the climb back. I'm ashamed to admit I gave up after my knee got so painful I was going down sideways like a crab. I cheered myself up with much moaning and complaining, and hurled vile abuse at Kim when he tried to take a photo of my tortured and hag-ridden face.

June 8th. Torrential rain and gusty winds all night and well into the day. We stayed inside, reading and drinking vast quantities of booze.

Upton upon Severn and Malvern

June 2nd. We cycled to Upton after lunch. What a lovely little town. It's very old and still has proper shops. I don't know if there's a supermarket but I didn't see one. I bought an excellent shirt in a charity shop. I love charity shops in pleasant and affluent towns, you get a very good class of cast-offs.

We had a drink on a pub terrace overlooking the river. There were some cruisers and a few narrowboats tied up. How pleasant to sit there in the sun, trying not to think about cycling back uphill.


June 3rd. We toyed with the idea of cycling to Malvern. Kim was all for it but I reckoned it was going to mighty hilly. We cavassed opinion from other campers and they all reckoned we were barking mad to even contemplate it. Kim was not put off but I was. I won the battle and we took the car. Bloody good job too, it was horrendously hilly and I would have been crying and moaning the whole way.

Malvern is a gracious town with lovely views from the top of the hill. The day was hot and the park was full of people sitting about on the grass - it's good to see people outside and enjoying the sunshine.

The Priory is worth seeing. It's very old, the original Benedictine Priory was founded by Aldwyn in 1085. Obviously, they've added bits since then but it's still mighty impressive.

We had a cup of tea at the Lyttelton Well Christian Coffee House, which appears to be run by a gang of worthy, if elderly, volunteers. Lovely people, but be prepared for a long wait while they fiddle about getting it right. Remember Mrs Overall from Acorn Antiques? I need say no more.